Some days you don’t catch any waves

I walk onto the beach with board in hand, sinuses full of sea water and arms dangling like ropes. Some days you don’t catch any waves. It’s okay to be bad at things and do them anyway–actually it’s recommended.

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Practice makes practice

When I was first learning to surf, my experienced-surfer friend, Clare, encouraged me to practice my pop-ups.  She recommended lying on my stomach on the living room floor and practicing the process of paddling, then pushing up and popping up.  The pop up is important in surfing and something most beginner surfers struggle with.  It’s…

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Oh honey it’s just a wave

Yesterday I got back in the water for the first time in two weeks.  Pretty much every time I walk into the ocean with my surfboard, I feel intimidated.  Yesterday I paused on the sand and did some yoga stretches before paddling out (probably should have done more as my neck and shoulders are a…

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